My first foray
into Holster Making.
I have looked around and have not been able to find a compact, form fitted holster for a Colt 380 Government model. Well, there are a very few but they’re megabucks.
Anyway, here’s my first attempt. I had to buy a pair of punches but aside from that I have $4 invested in this. i have done some leatherwork in the past, and those skills are rusty, but they’re there.
It’s not bad. I had to use a pen to lay it out and there are still pen marks on it, but it’ll be dyed black and those will get covered.
I still have the pattern, and if i like this enough I’ll get some Latigo and do it again. I did the front in 8 ounce and the back in 10, so the back of this is almost flat.
Update: The flap of leather standing is the piece for the thumb break, it’s just drying in place until I can get a snap for it.
Update update: For anyone that’s interested I found the info on holstermaking here, accidentally, doing a search for a 380 holster. When mine is done, I think it’ll look as good as his, almost.
16 comments Og | Uncategorized
Purdy.
How did you get the outline of the ejection port and trigger molded into the shape?
You mold the leather while it’s wet. You have to oil the poop out of your gun before you stick it in the wet holster, of course, and I’m waiting for it to dry so I can remove and THOROUGHLY clean the gun, but it’s a lot easier than you’d think. It’s mostly just rubbing with your fingers, though I did use a piece of antler to crowd leather into the tight corners.
I’ve got a holster for my .45 that was made the same way (another guy did the stitching, but I did the molding) – I used the round end of a Craftsman screwdriver, but if I were to do it again, I’d have the pistol in a plastic bag.
Oil didn’t stand up to wet leather very well, and my carry pistol still has some finish damage from that treatment.
Looks great! Oil and a plastic bag work well also.
For those who don’t have any regular oil for the leather when you are done, olive oil will work also. Or any vegetable oil. Cowboys in California used to use olive oil on their saddles as it was cheap.
I would not recomend oiling the holster, it will soften the leather to much to hold the molding shape,and it will also break it down over time. A good beeswax or Sno-Seal works much better and will also water-proof the leather.
Nice!! When I have money again, I’ll have to try that on the S&W .500 mag I want :)
Very nice, Og. Very nice.
Very cool, Og.
I want a holster for my 5-inch S&W M27 that isn’t made for a 6-inch barreled revolver and I have been unsuccessful. So, I found those big-format leather working books by Al Stohlman and got the one on holster-making and the one on belt-making. The holster book shows how to make a pattern for any handgun and has a few ready-made patterns. It looks like you’re doing fine already, but I would recommend these books also.
I have yet to make a holster, but I have used Stohlman’s techniques for tooling and hand-sewing leather.
I like it. Be sure to post after the dye job, I’ll bet it looks even better. I agree with Dave, an oil like Neatsfoot will soften the leather and likely lose the molding. SnoSeal is a good recommendation. I saved your link to holstermaking. I have leather and lots of tools left over from my teen years (mid-seventies), I would like to try something for my Taurus PT-145. I have been a faithful reader for many years. Keep up the good work.
I’m impressed. No question.
Very impressive, og. Holsters remind me of motorcycle seats. Factory units are never quite right, some times you just have to roll your own.
I love that little gun.
Looks like you got a very good start. Some tips: once you have finished boning (molding the outlines & features) the body of the holster, I usually remove the gun and let the leather dry thoroughly. This gives you a tight fit when you actually put the holster in service.
Be sure to let the leather dry thoroughly, over a course of several days. Do not try to hurry things along with a blow dryer or an oven, the dye job will come out looking splotchy in any color but black.
Some changes to the pattern you may want to consider: cut the top (mouth) of the holster to allow more exposure of the bottom of the trigger guard, this allows a better initial grip on the weapon. Cut the holster strap so it doesn’t run over the right grip panel, since that spot is where the base of your trigger finger will rest as you take a grip on your weapon prior to the draw stroke.
A good rule of thumb is there should be no leather between your hand and the weapon when you take your firing grip prior to the draw – any bit of leather in there can cause enough drag to make you forcefully yank the weapon from the holster. Yanking the weapon = first step in fumbling the draw.
I don’t particularly care for magazine carriers attached to the holster, since it’s always a hassle to get the magazine out when you need it. However, being able to grab one packet to access both your gun & magazine is worthwhile for some folks.
BTW, I’ve made more than a few concealment holsters in the past, and I can relate what a real pleasure it is to carry your pistol in a holster you made yourself.
Nice Job!
Been looking for one to buy. Now I think I shall roll my own. Thanks Og. You just scratched an itch I weasn’t even aware I had.
[…] Og makes his own holster. Cool. […]
Not bad for a first draft! In order to save yourself time and potential finish damage, let the leather get dry to the touch before wet molding. It doesn’t take long. Put the gun in the holster and use your fingers or whatever to mold the leather to the gun. It will mold easily at this point. Then remove your gun and let the holster air dry. It will retain the shape.