How to make a quarter-rib
This is the process I used- for anyone who is even mildly interested- in making the sight base.
First I turned a slug so the bore matched the contour of the barrel.
Then I chamfered the slug so it was the correct external profile
then I cut a 3/4″ wide slab out of the top
Then I drilled and countersank the top to match the barrel, flattened the top, and cut the dovetail.
This is all in SolidWorks, and I hope it translates well in pictures. Next time you wonder to yourself why custom gunsmithing is so expensive, you will understand that it involves a lot more than just buying parts and bolting them together.
12 comments Og | Uncategorized
Nice series of illustrations, I was wondering how you did that. I have a hankering for a Unimat to use as a milling machine – with help from my machinist/High Master shooting friend.
Dirt: Buy a knee mill. You’ll be happier. A unimat will only frustrate you with it’s puniness.
I have watched operations like Gunsmith Bob fabricating a takedown plug for my Colt 1902 or Shannon turning out a cocking indicator for my Dreyse 1907 and realized at moments like that just how lucky I am.
I’ve showed you that .300 Whisper Turkish Mauser, right? Shannon fabbed the bottom metal for that from raw stock…
No, I’d love to see it. I could bring down the Arisaka, and you could show me yours while I show you mine. Also: Side trip to see the invalid.
Nice illustration. I didn’t think to approach it like that. I was figuring you started with flat stock and used a radius cutter in the mill. I will have to play with that idea for some of my rifles. I have a table top lathe and small mill. Looks like some fun. Would love to get hold of solid works software. May have to look into taking some classes at school so I can acquire a student version and some training. My schooling only went as far as autocad (which was THE program of the time), which is way out of date by today standards. Really nice job. If I can make it to the gunshow this weekend {and if you and my brother are planning on going) I would love to see it. Take care and really nice job.
Rich: Alibre Design is a very similar 3d package, and it’s got a free trial, and a “home” version you can buy cheaply. Solidworks is still around $5k a chair- or more. Alibre has many of the important tools with none of the big dollars.
Damned impressive. Me, I’d just be a crimson assed monkey, flinging about with the wrong files and trying (and failing) to use a two axis drilling vise on the drill press table, in lieu of a proper mill.
Which, I don’t know how to use, anyway.
And people complain about the cost of the gunsmith’s bill. Nah, if I want really expensive, I’ll just “do it myself”.
Then I’ll take the new replacement part to the gunsmith and pay him to do it right.
Your post Og, is a good reminder to me, and I appreciate it.
Jim
Sunk New Dawn
Galveston, TX
I’m surrounded by perfectionists, actually. And I’ve come to the conclusion that I want a safe full of NICE rifles.
Did answer the question on how you got the reverse radius on the ends with camfer. I had it starting from a flat blank as well. I suppose that is why I did not click as a tool and die guy. I always tried to reduce waste, but the way you did it would really reduce time to production.
I have been getting a hankering for some machine tools of late. Must be my age.
Wanting to relive my youth and all that. Suppose it is better than a hot car.
I’d be like Jim too, except my buddy Wes has a 3-axis super-duper job and so I go to him.
No Unimat, Sherline? But I don’t have any place to put it, I hardly have room for a single stage press.
A sherline is a toy. For the price of a toy, you can buy a tool.
Unless you literally live in a telephone booth, you can find a way to use a maill and a real lathe.
Phone booth. That’s what makes me a super-blogger. ;-)