I woke up in a tent in the Bangueulu Game Reserve a few miles from lake Baka Baka, to the smell of tea and anthill biscuits and honey being warmed over a fire of exotic hardwoods.

We had about given up on finding any cape buffs we could shoot, though the desire was still in us. I stayed in camp this day and watched the locals butcher the lechwe we had shot the previous morning.

I still miss those hardwood fires, and those crisp Zambian mornings.