LeFever update
The stock came about 90% inletted but the iron varies so they leave extra material in key areas. Not interested in buying another replacement stock set, I took my time and went slowly, tiny scraps of emery board and a scalpel my predominant tools.

This is one of the Ithaca LeFevers, so the belly has a tapered plate which makes getting the metal to wood fit… interesting. You have to blacken the receiver with a candle and assemble, then abrade away the spots where the wood touches metal, lather, rinse, repeat until you scream.

The top is mostly straight lines so it was a bit easier. I don’t know how well the wood was dried and I don’t know how much shrinkage it has left, but I have left some small gaps that can be closed by pening up the wood where the tang hits the stock, later on.

Sorry about the crappy cellphone pics. If anyone can suggest a camera that does decent closeup work that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg, I’m all ears. I really likethe elegant line of this stock, which is whjy I want to make the gun usable again. I thought about bluing the receiver or color casehardening it, but I think a cleaning and polish will do wonders, and preserve the elegance of the old girl.
10 comments Og | Uncategorized

Your pictures are fine. My cell phone close ups normally turn out blurry. That’s when I revert back to my Nikon Cool pix. It’s the same camera i carried in Iraq. I specifically selected it because it is one of the few digital cameras that does not have a pop out lense. Fewer places for dust and grit to get in and gum up delecate mechanical parts.
Nice, Og. I just sold my Lefever to a good friend who is discovering the joys of shooting a double. I’m not sure that I’m not going to miss that shotgun.
As for cameras, I like Canon’s Powershot series. Multiple shooting modes, compact, and relatively rugged.
You could shave that wood a whole lot faster with a Dremel, you know? Bit of plastic wood to fill in the gaps, and you’re in bidness!
*chortle!*
Seriously though, that’s some sweet fitment you’ve got going on there. Although I understand your reluctance to tackle the checkering, I think it’s going to be deserving thereof.
As for the receiver, yes, an “in the white” patina would be nice. Would sending it off to Turnbull for case hardening be out of the question?
Jim
Sunk New Dawn
Galveston, TX
I have a local guy who could case harden it- I have even dabbled myself-but I think it would be fine in the white.
How much is “an arm and a leg”?
With Slash, I can recommend a PowerShot in general, but I’m uncertain about their closeup abilities, as I’ve never really used mine for that sort of thing.
Nearly any point-and-shoot will be better than any cell phone camera, generally speaking – and they can be quite affordable.
I’m in love with my Olympus XZ-1. You could pay almost twice as much for the XZ-2 right now, but why? They didn’t really improve much between the two.
Don’t pay attention to the knob polishers that tell you the XZ-1 is “only” 10MP. I’ve made 16×20’s after cropping into those 10MP, that I am well pleased with.
Lens quality is far more important than sheer resolution.
Nice work, Og.
Is that an ‘English’ straight stock? I’ve got an old SKB sxs in 20 with that stock; love the grip.
I wish. No, actually, I do not; it’s a round butt pistol grip- but it is every bit as elegant as english, and I love the way it looks.
Camera = whatever point and shoot.
Technique = move far away and zoom in to what you want to be in the picture. My experience is that the focus works better, and the depth of field is better, the farther you are from the think you want the detail close-up on. Just make sure it is optical zoom and not digital….
I understand about depth of field and optical zoom. I just want a decent camera that doesn’t cost a ton